 What's on in Rome this summerIn the summer, Rome's cultural life moves out of doors, with hundreds of events under the sun umbrella of the Estate Romana, Rome's summer festival. We've given you a roundup of what's on throughout the festival with links to web pages for the individual events. And since summer is the time to get out of the city, we've surveyed Rome's best beaches, lakes and outdoor pools.
Have a great time!
Joie and Vikki
Log on to www.InRomeNow.com to stay updated as screenings and events are announced, with more than 100 web pages about Rome, and links to trailers where you can preview events on our music, performance and movie pages.
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ESTATE ROMANA:
ROME'S SUMMER FESTIVAL
Rome's summer festival takes place all over the city, with restaurants, shops and a movie theater on the banks of the Tiber, concerts, plays, dance and opera in the ancient ruins. The Comune di Roma maintains a website for the summer festival, some of it in English. Estate Romana
Music and Dance Villa Adriano, Tivoli + At the ancient theater in Ostia Antica +At the Cavea, Parco della Musica +World Music at Villa Ada
+ Chamber Music at Saint Ivo + Rome Rock Festival + Fiesta! Rome's Latin Music Festival + Opera and Ballet at the Baths of Caracalla +Rome Festival Opera +Music and dance at the Villa Pamphili + Jazz at the Villa Celimontana + Concerts at the Teatro Marcello and the Villa Torlonia + Donne Romana + Summertime at the Casa del Jazz + Band concerts at the Piazza Ignazio
Theater
Pirandello on the Aventine Hill +Shakespeare in the Villa Borghese
+ Theater on the Janiculum Hill + The Miracle Players at the Forum
Events
+Festival Along the Tiber+ In the shadow of the Colosseum + Open Air Cinema + Mondofitness and Big Gym +World Cup on a Maxi Screen + Vintage Rome + Noantri Festival in Trastevere + Under the Bridge at the Castel Sant'Angelo + Gay Village + Fontanone Acqua Paolo
 FestiVAl, Villa Adriano, Tivoli
On the grounds of the villa of the Roman emperor Hadrian, in the ancient amphitheater.
Tickets €20, three-ticket package of your choice, €45. tel 892982 A pre-concert guided tour of the historic villa built by the emperor Hadrian is available in Italian at €4,50. Reservations required, tel 0774 382733 Ticket holders may reserve places on a free shuttle bus that leaves from the Parco della Musica two hours prior to each event, and returns at midnight, tel 06 802 41281.
Tickets tel 892 982 www.listicket.it
Mimmo Cuticchio: "Tancredi e Clorinda"
The Baroque opera by Monteverdi, performed by the most important heir to the traditional of Sicilian puppetry, with his company of marionettes, truly a work of art.
Sunday, July 4, 9 pm
Aurélia Thiérrée: "L'Oratorio d'Aurélia"
The granddaughter of Charlie Chaplin uses physical humor, acrobatics and a host of tricks to present this charming show.
Thursday - Saturday July 8-10, 9 pm
Enrico Rava and the Parco della Musica Jazz Lab: "Rava Noir"
Trumpeter Rava is perhaps the most celebrated jazz musician in Italy, with an international reputation. With an animated film by Altan.
Tuesday, July 13, 9 pm
Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui: "Babel"
The innovative Belgian dancer and choreographer has been in residence at the Toneelhuis d'Anvers since 2007. Always worth seeing.
Friday-Saturday, July 16 - 17, 9 pm
"Elvis Costello and the Sugarcanes"
In his newest incarnation, Costello performs with a top bluegrass group from Nashville. The highlight of this series.
Sunday, July 18, 9 pm
Luglio Suono BeneThe annual festival, held in the outdoor amphitheater, the Cavea, at the Parco della Musica, includes, as usual, a roster of major international names, some Italian stars, and some world music. For tickets tel 892 982
Los Lobos
The three-time Grammy-winning American Chicano rock band.
Saturday, July 3, 9 pm €32, €28
Chick Corea and Stefano Bollani
Bollani is an amazing pianist, straddling the worlds of classical and jazz music, appearing in Rome with the legendary American keyboardist, composer and drummer Chick Corea.
Sunday, July 4, 9 pm €40, €25
Serj Tankian, Orchestra Filarmonica Italiana: "Elect The Dead Symphony"
The Armenian-American singer-songwriter, multi-instrumentalist, record producer, poet, and a political activist best known as the lead vocalist, songwriter, keyboardist, and occasionally rhythm guitarist of the Grammy Award-winning rock band, System of a Down. In Rome, he recreates his debut solo album "Elect the Dead".
Monday, July 5, 9 pm €50, €40
The XX
The three-piece band from England. In 2009, they were named one of MTV Iggy's "Top 10 Bands with Buzz"
Tuesday, July 6, 9 pm
"Duke Ellington. A concert of sacred music"
PMJO, Coro dell'Accademia di Santa Cecilia, Petra Magoni vocalist
Friday, July 9, 9 pm €15Jeff Beck in concert
Beck was one of the three noted guitarists, with Eric Clapton and Jimmy Page, to have played with The Yardbirds. He was ranked 14th in Rolling Stone Magazine's list of the "100 Greatest Guitarists of All Time".
Monday, July 12, 9 pm €45, €35, €30
Mark Knopfler "Get Lucky"
British guitarist, singer, songwriter, record producer and film score composer., best-known for fronting the British rock band Dire Straits, ranked #27 on Rolling Stone magazine's list of "100 Greatest Guitarists of All Time." His latest album, "Get Lucky," was released in September 2009.
Tuesday, July 13, 9 pm €90-€50
The Legendary Earth, Wind & Fire
Still together after all these years, the group has sold over 90 million albums worldwide, won six Grammy Awards and four American Music Awards, and been inducted into both the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and the Vocal Group Hall of Fame.
Wednesday, July 14, 9 pm €55, €35
Mario Biondi "Spazio Tempo Tour"
The popular Italian singer, with a deep, velvety voice reminiscent of Barry White.
Thursday, July 15, 9 pm €60, €40
Carmen Consoli
The best-selling singer from Sicily. "Elettra", her seventh studio album, was released in 2009
Friday, July 16, 9 pm €50, €40, €30
Paolo Fresu, Omar Sosa, Trilok Gurtu
An intriguing and potentially powerful combination: the great Italian jazz trumpeter Fresu, Cuban pianist Sosa and Indian percussionist and composer Gurtu.
Friday, July 16, 9 pm €22, €18
Pat Metheny Group
The American guitarist incorporates elements of progressive and contemporary jazz, post-bop, Latin jazz and jazz fusion. Pat Metheny has three gold albums and 17 Grammy Awards.
Saturday, July 17, 9 pm €50, €40, €30
Keith Jarrett, Gary Peacock, Jack DeJohnette
An all-star trio that has been performing together since 1977, with American jazz icon pianist and composer Jarrett, double bassist Peacock and jazz drummer, pianist and composer DeJohnette.
(This concert is performed indoors at the Sala Santa Cecilia)
Sunday, July 18, 8 pm €100-€45
Paolo Nutini
The Scottish singer-songwriter (his father is of Tuscan descent). His second album, "Sunny Side Up", debuted at number one in the UK. It has so far been certified 3x platinum and won "Best International Album" at the 2010 Meteor Awards.
Sunday, July 18, 9 pm €50, €40, €35
Crosby Stills and Nash
The folk rock super group was inducted into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame in 1997.
Monday, July 19, 9 pm €60, €50, €40
Erykah Badu
The recording artist, record producer and actress from Texas
Tuesday, July 20, 9 pm €60, €40
Jónsi
The lead singer of Icelandic post-rock band Sigur Rós
Wednesday, July 21, 9 pm €35, €30, €25
Florence & The Machine
Singer Florence Welch and her backup group. The band's debut album, "Lungs" released in 2009, reached No. 1 on the UK album chart.
Thursday, July 22, 9 pm €30, €20
Norah Jones
The American singer-songwriter, pianist, keyboardist, guitarist, and actress, daughter of Indian sitarist Pandit Ravi Shankar and dancer Sue Jones, has sold more albums than any other female jazz artist during the 2000s.
Friday, July 23, 9 pm €60, €40
Simply Red
The British soul band sold more than 50 million albums over a 25-year career.
Saturday, July 24, 9 pm €80, €45
Neffa "Sognando Contromano"
Giovanni Pellino, aka Neffa, is a rapper, singer and songwriter.
Sunday, July 25, 9 pm €25, €15
Tinariwen
The band of Tuareg musicians from the Sahara Desert region of northern Mali, formed in 1979. In the early 2000s, Tinariwen started to gain a following outside Africa, first in the world music community, and then among general international audiences, due to frequent tours and appearances at major festivals in Europe and the USA.
Monday, July 26, 9 pm €15
Ludovico Einaudi "Nightbook"
The composer and pianist creates a minimalist, atmospheric style of music. "Nightbook," his ninth studio album, composed for piano and strings blended with percussive and electronic elements, is his interpretation of a night-time cityscape.
Tuesday, July 27, 9 pm €35, €30, €25
De André canta De André
The music of the legendary singer-songwriter Fabrizio De André performed by his son, Cristiano De André
Wednesday, July 28, 9 pm €35, €30, €25
Kings of Convenience
The indie folk-pop duo from Bergen, Norway.
Thursday, July 29, 9 pm €40, €35, €25
Alessandro Mannarino: "Bar della Rabbia"
The Roman singer-songwriter emerged from the city's club scene. "Bar della Rabbia" is his first release.
Friday, July 30, 9 pm €20, €15
Giovanni Allevi
The talented and eclectic pianist plays exclusively his own compositions.
Saturday, July 31, 9 pm €40, €20
Teatro dell'Opera di Roma at the Baths of Caracalla
An outdoor summer season of ballet and opera with the backdrop of the ruins of monumental Roman baths.
€110-€25 tel 06 481 60255 www.amitsrl.it
Rome and Juliet
The ballet with music by Serge Prokofiev and choreography by Carla Fracci, with Oksana Kucheruk /Gaia Straccamore alternating in the role of Juliet and Igor Yebra/
Andrian Fadeyev in the role of Romeo. Thursday, July 1-Tuesday, July 6, 9 pm
Aida
The perennial favorite by Giuseppe Verdi, conducted by Daniel Oren, directed by Maurizio di Mattia. Thursday-Saturday, July 15 - 17, 9 pm; Friday-Saturday, July 23-24; Friday, July 30; Sunday, August 1, Tuesday, August 3; Thursday, August 5, 9 pm
Rigoletto
Another great Verdi warhorse, in a new production conducted by Donato Renzetti
and directed by Lamberto Puggelli.
Wednesday-Thursday, July 28-29; Saturday, July 31; Wednesday, August 4; Friday-Sunday, August 6-8, 9 pm
Evenings of Great Music at the Courtyard of Sant' IvoCorso Rinascimento 40 (near Piazza Navona)Music under the stars in this magnificent courtyard designed by Borromini.€25-20 students €15, children €10 www.interensemble.orgVivaldi: Notturno venezianoSix of Vivaldi's string concerti, performed by the International Chamber Ensemble.Friday-Saturday, July 2-3; Tuesday, July 6, 9:30 pm Mozart - Notturno VienneseThe International Chamber Ensemble conducted by Francesco Carotenuto. Mozart's Divertimenti for strings, K.136, 137 and 138; Adagio and fugue K.546; Eine Kleine Nachtmusik K.525Friday-Saturday, July 9-10; Tuesday, July 13, 9:30 pm €20 J. Strauss: Die FledermausThe International Chamber Ensemble conducted by Francesco Carotenuto, directed by Peter Atherton with the soloists and chorus of the Opera Academy Company. Tuesday-Wednesday and Friday-Saturday, July 20-21 and 23-24, 9 pm €25 Noche de cuarteTangoWith the patronage of the Argentine Embassy in Italy, a quartet of tango musicians and a pair of dancers.Tuesday and Thursday, July 27 and 29, 9:30 pm €20I favolosi anni '60 tra Piazzolla e i Beatles (The fabulous '60s, from Piazzolla to the Beatles)Tangos by Piazzolla and a "Beatles Orchestral Suite."Tuesday, August 3; Saturday August 7; Tuesday, August 10, 9:30 pm €20Cosmphonies: Teatro Romano at Ostia AnticaOn the grounds of this remarkable archeological excavation, concerts are held in an actual Roman amphitheater at this ancient port city just a short drive from Rome. Shows start at 9:15 pm tel 853 01758www.cosmophonies.comThe best of Momix The acrobatic dancers who create extraordinary illusions, founded by the late Moses Pendleton in the 1980s. The group presents their most popular work of the past 25 years. Sunday-Monday, July 4 -5Jethro TullThe celebrated English group led by flutist Ian Anderson, celebrating their 42nd year. Wednesday, July 14Romolus - tutta un'altra storiaA musical comedy based on the myth of the founding of Rome and the history of the Roman Empire.Thursday, July 22Alessandra Amoroso: Senza Nuvole Tour 2010 Friday, July 23
Corrado Augias e Giuseppe Modugno: Raccontare Chopin The story of the great composer, told by an actor and a pianist. Saturday, July 24Patti Smith Acoustic Band: We Shall Live Again The series highlight, the poet and singer from New Jersey. Smith became a highly influential component of the New York City punk rock movement with her 1975 début album "Horses". Called the "Godmother of Punk", she integrated the beat poetry performance style with three-chord rock. Smith's most widely known song is "Because the Night", which was co-written with Bruce Springsteen and reached number 13 on the Billboard Hot 100 chart in 1978. In 2005, Patti Smith was named a Commander of the Ordre des Arts et des Lettres by the French Minister of Culture, and in 2007, she was inducted into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame.Wednesday, July 28International Festival of Latin-American Music and CultureCelebrating its sixteenth year, the festival this summer becomes a 7000 square -meter club with restaurants, bar, disco dance floor and shopping. Ippodromo delle Capannelle, via Appia Nuova, south Rome (by car take exit 23 from the GRA towards Rome. By metro, take the A line to Cinecittà where you pick up the 654 bus) through August 16www.fiesta.it
Rome Rock FestivalI ppodromo delle Capannelle, via Appia Nuova south Rome (by car take exit 23 from the GRA towards Rome. By metro, take the A line to Cinecittà where you pick up the 654 bus). Held on the grounds of a race track way down in south Rome. www.ticketone.it www.rockinroma.comThe Cranberries Monday, July 5 €34MikaTuesday, July 6 €30GossipWednesday, July 7 €25ZZ TopMonday, July 12 €35Ska-p + 99 Posse + Piotta + The Hormonauts Tuesday, July 13 €20Baustelle + Nina Zilli Wednesday, July 14 €20Skunk Anansie Wednesday, July 15 €30Afterhours Wednesday, July 21 €20Litfiba Reunion Thursday, July 22The Cult + Special guest Monday, July 26 €30Daniele Silvestri e Orchestra di Piazza Vittorio Tuesday, July 27 €15Gary Moore Wednesday July 28 €30ShaggyFriday, July 30 €20Roma Incontra il MondoConcerts held nightly at the lake on the grounds of the beautiful Villa Ada in northern Rome, featuring artists from all over the world. The multi-ethnic theme extends to the "village" set up for the concert series, with foods from North Africa to India, to our own Roman pizza. Get there early, relax in the open air and greenery over a picnic dinner. Enter the park through the gate at Via di Ponte Salario. Ticket prices range from €8 to €13.www.villaada.org
Note: Cesaria Evora, scheduled for July 5, who would have been the festival highlight, has had to cancel due to illness. Rome Festival Opera In the Courtyard of the Palazzo Pio IXConductor Fritz Maraffi runs the annual Rome Festival Opera series, in which student singers, dancers and instrumentalists perform alongside professionals. Then the Orchestra "Le Muse" takes over for a pair of concerts. Cortile Auditorium Palazzo Pio IX, Via dei Cavalieri del San Sepolcro 1(Vatican between Saint Peter's and Borgo Santo Spirito)Tickets available at the door. €15; €5 children under 16; €13 Over 60 Fully-staged operas (L'Elisir d'Amore, La Serva Padrona) €20; €8 children under 16; €18 Over 60tel 06 981 83621 - 339 654 1119Suite from Verdi's "La Traviata"Plus Beethoven's Symphony n. 6 Rome Festival Opera Orchestra, Chorus and Ballet. Thursday, July 1, 8:45 pm Donizetti's "L'Elisir d'Amore"Rome Festival Opera Orchestra, Chorus and Ballet. Friday, July 2; Sunday, July 4; Tuesday, July 6; Friday, July 9, 8:30 pm Suite from Mozart's "The Marriage of Figaro"Mia Pafumi, soprano; Chag Sik Shin, baritone. Rome Festival Opera, Chorus and Orchestra, conducted by Fritz Maraffi. Saturday, July 3, 8:45 pm and Thursday, July 8, 8:45 pm Suite from Mozart's "The Magic Flute"Alessandra Carmen Rocco, mezzo soprano; Domenico Venturini, tenor; James Varah, baritone. Rome Festival Opera, Chorus and Orchestra, conducted by Fritz Maraffi. Monday, July 5, 8:45 pm and Saturday, July 10, 8:45 pm Suite from Donizetti's "L'Elisir d'Amore" plusDvorak's Symphony n. 7 and Ravel's Rhapsodie Espagnole.Friday, July 9, 8:45 pm Festival FinaleAmalia Dustin, mezzo soprano; Simon Esteban La Rosa, tenor; Domenico Venturini, tenor; Jean Paul Grisoni, baritone; Krystal Johnson, ballerina. Rome Festival Opera, Chorus and Orchestra, conducted by Fritz Maraffi. Bizet's Carmen suite, Brahms' Symphony n. 2, Debussy Nocturnes. Sunday, July 11, 8:30 pm Vivaldi and PiazzollaOrchestra "Le Muse", conducted by Laura Simionato with Lisa Green, violin soloist. Vivaldi's Il Cimento dell'Armonia & dell'Invenzione Op. 8; and Le Quattro Stagioni; Astor Piazzolla's Las cuatros estaciones portenas.Monday, July 12, 8:45 pm La Serva PadronaThe opera buffo by Pergolesi, with singers Jean Paul Grisoni, Marizia Catania and Domenico Venturini, Opera and Orchstra "Le Muse" conducted by Laura Simionata, directed by Fritz Maraffi. Tuesday, July 13, 8:45 pm I Concerti nel Parco and Invito alla DanzaA series of music and dance events held on the grounds of Rome's largest public park, the Villa Pamphili at the top of the Janiculum hill. An especially nice touch this year, a package including a tour of the villa, which is seldom open to the public and an al fresco dinner before the concert is available at €25. www.iconcertinelparco.itMusicReadings, music and visuals from the novels of Gianrico CarofiglioWith the jazz quartet Chelsea Hotel, Gianrico Carofiglio narrator, Francesco Carofiglio director, Nicola Amato video projections. Monday, July 12Valeria Golino: George Sand racconta ChopinGolino, one of Italy's most acclaimed actresses, portrays George Sand in her own words, recounting her love affair with the composer and pianist Frédéric Chopin. With original text by Sandro Cappelletto, pianist Roberto Cominati. Commemorating the 200th anniversary of the birth of Chopin. Friday, July 16Tango: Antonella RuggieroThe noted singer with dancers Patricia Carrazco and Pablo Linares and the Hyperion Ensemble.Saturday, July 17The Oblivion ShowCabaret. The ensemble developed an enormous following with their You Tube film; "I Promessi Sposi in 10 minutes."Sunday, July 18Morgan with the Ensemble Symphony OrchestraCarlo Carcano conducting. The singer-songwriter and pianist smudges the barriers between popular and classical music. For this concert, he has programmed Ravel's Concerto in G, followed by songs from his own albums "Da A Ad A" and "Canzoni dell'Appartamento", and classic Italian songs, which he has collected in his latest release, "Songbook Vol. 1".Tuesday, July 20Alti & BassiFive male voices singing a cappella in the style of Manhattan Transfer, cover vintage hits by Mina, Battisti, Vanoni, Paoli, Equipe '84.Sunday, July 25Jazz pianist Peter Cincotti: SummertimeThe Italian-American composer, pianist and singer, born and raised in New York. His latest album "Goodbye Philapdelphia", combines elements of jazz with pop, rock and blues. With his jazz quartet.Saturday, July 31Invito alla DanzaAlso in the park at the Villa Pamphili, the 20th anniversary of this important dance festival. www.invitoalladanza.itNotte di StelleBallet gala with guest stars Giuseppe Picone, Igor Yebra, Oksana Kucheruk, Vladimir Shishov, Olga Esina, Marzia Falcon and the primi ballerini of the Arena di Verona, Amaya Ugarteque, Toni Russo, Alessia Gelmetti, Ilenia Montagnoli, Eugenio Kourtsev. A co-production with the Fondazione Arena di Verona and the Festival Invito alla Danza. €28, €25, reduced €25, €22 Friday, July 9 Soloists of the Staatsballett Berlin: "Casanova, il Sorriso del Diavolo"Choreographer Mauro de Candia, with étoile Beatrice Knop. €23, €20, reduced €20, €17Tuesday, July 13Balletto dell'Esperia; "Scenario Natura" French choreographer Thierry Malandain, artistic director of the Ballet de Biarritz, has created a ballet based on themes of nature and transformation, in which three women descend from heaven to earth to take their last breaths, before being transformed into swans. €23, €20, reduced €20, €17
Thursday, July 15Gala: Homage to the Royal BalletWith Mara Galeazzi, the étoiles and soloists of the Royal Ballet London. A tribute to the great choreographers who have worked with the Royal Ballet, included dances by Frederick Ashton, Kenneth MacMillan, Wayne MacGregor, Alistair Marriott. €28, €25 reduced €25, €22Wednesday, July 21"Otango Company: "Cincotango" Argentine tango, with five pairs of dancers and five musicians, representing five eras of the tango and five styles of tango dancing, from Gardel to Piazzolla.
€23,20 reduced €20, €17
Thursday-Friday, July 22-23
Elisa Monte Dance: "Emotions"Especially created by American choreographer Elisa Monte for the 20th anniversary of the Invito alla Danza festival. Founded with choreographer David Brown in 1981, the company is considered the heir to Martha Graham, with whom Monte danced for eight years as prima ballerina and then as principal choreographer., as well as working with the Pilobolus Dance Theater, Lar Lubovitch Dance Company, Boston Ballet and Alvin Ailey American Dance Theatre .€23, €20 reduced €20, €17Tuesday-Wednesday, July 27-28Flamenco- Compagnia Maria Serrano: "Esencias"Created by Serrano for the 20th anniversary of the Invito alla Danza Festival. An autobiographical journey through Serrano's life and her stellar career, with traditional flamenco music performed live. €23, €20 reduced €20, €17 Thursday-Friday, July 29-30
Music at the Teatro Marcello and the Villa Torlonia
Near the end of the Roman Republic, the Emperor Augustus, as a gift to his nephew, ordered the building of a huge theater, seating 11,000 spectators. Augustus died five years before the theater was completed in 13 BC, but the name stuck. Today, the upper stories of the Teatro Marcello have been converted into luxury apartments, while the lower section and the surrounding area, is a fascinating archeological site, used for open air concerts in the warmer months, usually piano recitals and small chamber groups.
Via del Teatro Marcello 44
Nightly, through October 3
The price of the ticket includes a guided tour of the archeological site. €21. www.tempietto.it
The same series is performed on alternate nights on the grounds of the Villa Torlonia, Via Nomentana 70
Beginning, Saturday, July 3, 8.30 pm.
Villa Celemontana Jazz FestivalEurope's longest running jazz festival with nightly performances extending into September, held on the park grounds of a historic villa near the Baths of Caracalla. The best Italian jazz musicians and a few international names. www.villacelimontanajazz.comSeason highlights:Mike Stern Band with guest Randy BreckerWednesday, July 14€18-€15Maria Joao and Maria Laginha QuartetSamba, Tuesday, July 20€18-€15Sarah-Jane Morris Saturday, August 31
Donne Romane
Celebrating historic personalities, such as Raphael's beloved "Fornarina," Jacopa de Sette Soli, the confidant of San Francesco d'Assisi, Maria Mancini Colonna, wife of Onofrio Colonna and lover of the Louis XIV king of France, Vittoria Colonna confidant of Michelangelo. Two singers, Alessia Alongi and Giorgia Fini, with guitarist Paolo Gatti.
Parco Savello, Giardino degli Aranci, Piazza Pietro d'Illaria (Aventino)
Tuesday-Sunday, 9 pm; through August 29
€16, reduced €14 Summertime at the Casa del JazzThe beautiful Villa Osio and its surrounding 2,500 square-meter park are the site of this center for jazz. Come for dinner or stay after the concert for a drink at the bar. In the summer, the concerts move out of doors to the lawns of the park.Viale di Porta Ardeatina, 55 (near the Baths of Caracalla)Tickets tel 199 109 783, information 06 704 731, restaurant 06 700 8370http://www.casajazz.itConcerti per Roma Capitale a piazza Sant'IgnazioA series of free open air concerts performed by the very fine bands of Rome's police and military.Piazza Sant'Ignazio, (near the Pantheon) All concerts at 9 pmBanda dell'Arma dei Carabinieri, Monday, July 5Banda della Polizia di Stato, Tuesday, July 6Banda del Corpo della Polizia Municipale, Thursday, July 8Banda della Polizia Penitenziaria, Friday, July 9Banda dell'Aeronautica, Monday, , July 12Banda dell'Esercito, Tuesday, July 13Banda dei Vigili del Fuoco, Wednesday, July 14Banda della Marina Militare, Thursday, July 15Banda della Guardia di Finanza, Friday, July 16 Book your Rome apartments online now.  |  THEATERSilvano Toti Globe TheaterOn the grounds of the Villa Borghese, a replica of Shakespeare's own theater, where every summer, works of the Bard are presented in Italian translation. No performances on Mondays. www.globetheatreroma.com, www.greenticket.itThe Two Gentlemen of Verona
Directed by Francesco Sala, with music by Nicola Piovani Thursday, July 8 through Sunday, July 18, 9:15 pm; July 10 and 11, 10:30 pm, The Tempest Starring Giorgio Albertazzi as Prospero, directed by Daniele Salvo. Friday, July 23 through Sunday, August 1, 9:15 pm
Much Ado About NothingDirected by Loredana Scaramella, with music performed live by the William Kemp Trio. Wednesday, August 4 through Sunday, August 22, 9:15 pm; closed August 14-17 The Taming of the Shrew
Directed by Marco Carniti. Wednesday, August 25 through Sunday, September 5, 9:15 pm.
A Midsummer Night's Dream
Directed by Riccardo Cavallo. Wednesday, September 8 through Sunday, September 19, 9:15 pm.
PirandellianoAn annual season devoted to the works of Italy's most famous playwright, Luigi Pirandello, with two plays presented in alternation. www.labottegadellemaschere.itGarden of the Basilica dei Santi Bonifacio e Alessio all'Aventino Roma, Piazza Sant'Alessio, 23 (Aventine)Shows begin at 9:15 pm €12 reduced €10 www.labottegadellemaschere.itIl Piacere dell'OnestàTuesday, Thursday, Saturday July 6 through August 7 Il Berretto a SonagliWednesday, Friday and Sunday, July 7 through August 8Plays at the Amphitheater Quercia del TassoBuilt into the side of the Janiculum Hill, this outdoor theater hosts a season of plays in Italian.www.anfiteatroquerciadeltasso.comMakkekomiko Mondiale Cabaret with Mago Mancini, Sergio Giuffrida, Sergio Viglianese, Gianluca Irti and Marco Passiglia Sunday, July 4, 9:15 pm €10Aladino 2010Presented by Astra Roma Ballet, a dance in one act inspired by the fable, with music by A. Vivaldi, M. Glinka, J. Pook, N. Sawhney.Monday-Tuesday, July 5-6, 9:15 pm €18, reduced €14Notte di FadoPortuguese Fado music with Valentina Comanda, Conjunto Romano, Felice Zaccheo, Franco Pietropaoli, a benefit for the Casa Rifugio Sant'Anna OnlusWednesday, July 14, 9:15 pm €20 Un diabolico divorzio
The classic French farce by V. Sardou, liberally adapted and presented in Italian. With Sergio Ammirata and Patrizia Parisi.
Friday-Saturday, July 16-17; Tuesday-Saturday, July 21-24; Tuesday- Saturday, July 27-31. Performances at 9:15 pm.
€20
La cicogna si diverte
A French comedy from 1951 by André Roussin, presented in Italian.
Monday-Tuesday, July 12-13; Sunday-Monday, July 18-19; Sunday-Monday, July 25-26; Sunday-Monday, August 1-2; Sunday-Monday August 15-16; Sunday-Monday, August 22-23; Sunday-Monday, August 29-30. Performances at 9:15 pm
€20
Virgil's Aenead Each year a classic play is presented on the historic grounds of the Imperial Forums. You don't need to understand the language to appreciate the experience of moving through the Roman Forum, magically illuminated at night, and hearing these immortal words intoned.Foro di Augusto, Piazza del Grillo 1 through August 1, 9:30 pm €30 www.italytickets.it Miracle Players: The History of Rome, Part OneEach summer, the Miracle Players delight their loyal audiences with original comic productions based on real Roman history. Past seasons have including spoofs on the Caesars, the kings of Rome, and more. This year, for their twelfth anniversary, they are offering their take on "The History of Rome Part One," which encapsulates some of the funnier moments from previous years' performances. As always, the play draws its inspiration from the writings of Suetonius, Plutarch, Livy, Cicero, Shakespeare - and Monty Python. Get there early and bring a cushion. You'll be sitting on stone steps or on the ground. In front of the Mamertine Prison at the Roman Forum. From Piazza Venezia, take your first right off Via dei Fori Imperiali (as though you are going to the Vittoriana museum complex) and follow the signs to the Mamertine. Fridays, 7:30 pm; through August 7 Entrance is free, but gratuities are customary.www.miracleplayers.org EVENTSUnder the Castel Sant'Angelo Bridge
Stands selling antiques, books and bric a brac, plus evening cabaret, live music jazz, rock, pop, through Thursday, August 15
www.sottopontesantangelo.com
Lungo il Tevere - Along the TiberThe annual summer fair on the banks of the Tiber in Trastevere. This year's offerings are the usual bancarelle, stands selling everything from the frivolous to the useful, a selection of food options, culture and entertainment. Participating eateries include no less than three wine bars, the popular couscous restaurant, a couple of pizzerie, a porchetta and panini stand, a pasticceria, a sushi restaurant, a fish restaurant and a meat restaurant, and, of course, a gelateria. Among the cultural events, the Teatro Belli will be presenting shows and concerts; the Spazio Multimediale Tiber will host three installations; and a string quartet will play on Sundays. The fair, which rolls into action in the evenings, continues through the end of August.
www.lungoiltevereroma.itMondofitnessAn open-air center with weights, cardio machines, spinning, classes in aerobics, pilates, dance, martial arts, an aqua gym, roller boarding, a basketball court for three-on-three games, a climbing wall, a wellness cafe, a beach area for sand volleyball, and an area for the kids. Viale Tor di Quinto 15 (on the Vatican side of the Lungotevere north of Ponte Milvio) Open every day June 16-September 7, 10 am to midnight. Entrance is free, but for the gym, classes and locker room, you'll need to purchase a pass. Day passes €15, single classes €7, season pass €110, one-month pass €70.
www.mondofitness-roma.itAcross town at Eur, Big Gym is a 12,000 square-meter facility, with a pool, exercise facilties, multi-media games like virtual golf, a bar, restaurant and disco, and areas to just relax and watch the Fifa cup on the big screen. Open from 10 to midnight, through August 8. Daily pass €8. www.biggym.itThe World Cup on a Maxi-Screen If you are wondering where to watch the world cup - apart from the comfort of your own couch - you can get into the spirit with thousands of cheering fans, who will be watching on a mammmoth screen set up out of doors in the Borghese Gardens. Part of a "Fifa Village" in the Piazza Siena for the duration. Open from 11 am - 2 am. Free admission.
Open Air CinemasSince many of Rome's cinemas are not air-conditioned, it's become a tradition to set up open-air theaters in the various neighborhoods. Most of the films will be screened in Italian.L'Isola del CinemaSurrounded by the action of the Lungo er Tevere festival, this theater is on the Isola Tiberina, in the middle of the Tiber river at Trastevere. You can see a movie, eat dinner, and have a snack or a drink afterwards, all without leaving the river. Two tented theaters. The maxiscreen tent seats 500. While the smaller Cinelab offers an international roster of niche films. €6, reduced €4 through September 5
www.IsoladelCinema.com Notti di cinema a Piazza Vittorio
Giardini di Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II entrance on Via Conte Verde One of the most ambitious summer events, known as "Ping pong del Cinema italiano" is a series of meetings with directors and writers, questions and answers, hence the term "ping pong." The festival includes a series dedicated to Italian cinema. New faces in cinema is the theme on Monday nights, while Thursday screenings include the "ping pong" encounters. Also included in the fesitval this year, screenings of films from the Pesaro and Locarno film festivals. Through September 6. programArena Arvalia a Villa Bonelli, Via Montalcini 1
Arena Cinemunix alla Bellini, Circonvallazione Tuscolana 59
Arena Cinemunix alla Gaio Cecilio, Via dell'Aeroporto 115
Arena dei Colli Aniene, Piazza Camillo Loriedo
Arena dei Granai, Via dei Granai di Nerva
Arena di Castel S. Angelo, Piazza Adriana
Arena di Cerveteri, Parco della Legnara
Arena di Ciampino, Casale dei Monaci, Via Melvin Jones snc Ciampino
Arena di Garbatella, Piazza Benedetto Brin
Arena di Monteverde, Via Fonteiana 125
Arena di Villa Lazzaroni, Via Tommaso Fortifiocca 71
All'ombra del colosseoOne of the nicest of the temporary areas set up for the Estate Romana summer festival, "Al Ombra del Colosso" festures a 1,500 square meter village, seating 2000 for cabaret and concerts. During the day, there's a 200-square meter pool and jacuzzi; a disco, featuring an "apperitivo pool party" at 5 pm; a restaurant serving breakfast, lunch, dinner and apperitivi; a revolving Texas Hold 'em Poker game; and cabaret shows nightly at 9:45 pm. Parco del Celio, Viale del Parco del Celio at Via Celio Vibenna. Pool open, 9 am - 6 pm; Monday-Friday €14 full day, €10 half day, reduced €7. Saturday-Sunday €18, reduced €9, half day €14. Cabaret tickets sold separately.
www.allombradelcolosseo.itRoma VintageRoma Vintage pitches its tents at the San Sebastiano park (via di Porta San Sebastiano near the Baths of Caracalla). An homage to the '60s, '70s and '80s, the event features theater, music, the ubiquitous booths and food stands, plus screenings of vintage films, a "Vintage Shop," disco and bar, and needless to say, a maxiscreen for watching the World Cup. Open through August 15.
www.romavintage.it
Festa di NoantriA little piece of Rome's history, this festival celebrates the day when fishermen on the Tiber pulled up a statue of the Virgin Mary. The event, held every year in Trastevere, is a neighborhood affair. The statue is paraded through the streets, stages are set up on corners with music and dancing, traditional and otherwise. Stands sell all sorts of stuff - best of all, they serve porchetta, delicious pork roasted on the spit with lots of garlic and rosemary. The festival was immortalized in Fellini's film "Roma." Monday, July 17 -Sunday, July 26.www.festadenoantri.itGay Village FestivalThe ninth edition of this summer celebration of gay culture, with concerts, dancing, Parco del Ninfeo, Via delle Tre Fontane at via dell'Agricoltura (Eur) Open Thursday-Saturday, with happy hour from 8-9:30 pm, followed by shows, films, djs. Entrance fee aftr 9:30 pm: Thursday €8, Friday€13, Saturday, €16, includes drink. Schedule of events (in Italian) www.gayvillage.it | Fontanone dell'Acqua Paola Via Garibaldi near the top of the Janiculum hill. With a spectacular panoramic view of Rome below and the immense fountain of Acqua Paola as a backdrop, a summer venue offering a literary cafe open from 7 pm, and nightly shows at 9 pm (€20 - €5) Continuing through September 12.
program
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ART
Nino Migliori - Il passato è un mosaico da incontrare
A selection of 100 images shot from 1950 to 1959 document the period that marked the rise of Mussolini and Fascism. Migliori's photographs have been in the mainstream of Italian and international art salons since the late 1940s. He is known for experimenting with the abstraction of the "off camera", manipulating the mechanism of the Polaroid and over-layering of images. For all his experimentation and research, Migliori's photographs remain figurative and focused on social themes.
Complesso Del Vittoriano, Via di San Pietro in Carcere (Piazza Venezia)
Tuesday - Sunday, 9:30 am - 7:30 pm;
July 8 through September 5 tel 06 678 0363Dal sepolcro al museo - Storie di saccheggi e recuperi A thematic survey of sepulchral models, dating from the cista di tufo ovoide villanoviana (an indigenous stone) to the marble sarcophagi of the Roman Empire. The tombs removed from Italy during the 1950s, which remained in private collections and museums collection, have recently been returned. Complesso Del Vittoriano , Via Di San Pietro in Carcere (Piazza Venezia)Monday - Friday, 9:30 am - 6:30 pm; through September 12 Also at this museum: Nino Miglori, see above.Elio De Luca - Anime Salve De Luca is widely known for his unique technique of oil painting on cement surfaces and for his use of crayon oils on yellow paper. Some critics consider De Luca a traditionalist using new techniques while maintaining stylistic ties with art of the early 20th century. Palazza Venezia, Via Del Plebiscito 118 (Piazza Venezia) Tuesday - Sunday, 10 am - 7 pm; through July 7 tel 06 699 94 299 India India - I voti del sacro More than 506 works of Indian art comprised of bronze, metal objects, miniature design, and illustrated manuscripts dating from the 15th to the 20th centuries. Museo Nazionale D'Arte Orientale Giuseppe Tucci - Palazzo Brancaccio Via Merulana 248 (Near San Giovanni-Santa Maria Maggiore) Tuesday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 am- 2 pm; Thursday and Saturday, 9 am - 7:30 pm; through October 10 San Francesco Rome San Francesco - Cultura e spiritualità del Santo patrono d'Italia This exhibition of documents, paintings, artistic historical material and objects frames religious and multiform experiences during the religious life of of St. Francis of Assisi, whose movement was already present in Rome and Lazio in the 13th century.Basilica Di Santa Maria in Aracoeli; Piazza Del Campidoglio Monday - Sunday, 9 am - 12:30 pm and 3:30-6:30 pm; through July 18 Bernardo Siciliano Nude CityA series of paintings, including nudes in large format. Siciliano (Rome, 1969-), the son of Enzo Siliciano, one of Italy's most prominent contemporary writers. He has shown in solo and group exhibitions in Milan, Bologna and the U.S. at the Albright Knox, Forum Gallery, New York and DFN Gallery, N.Y. and in Los Angeles, CA.Siciliano lives an works in New York City.La Pelanda (MACRO Future) Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4 (Testaccio)Tuesday - Sunday, 4 pm - 12 am; through July 25Also at this museum: Joe Sternfeld, see below. Jean-Auguste-Dominque Ingres / Ellsworth KellyKelly has been important on an international scale since the the late 1940s. This exhibition aims to identify what links his work to 19th century master Ingres, who is said to have influenced innovative modern art overall.Accademia di Francia, Villa Medici (Grandes Galeries). Viale Trinità dei Monte 1, Tuesday-Sunday, 11 am - 7 pm, through September 26 tel 06 67611Tullio Pericoli. Lineamenti. Volto e paesaggioA selection of recent works by Pericoli explores the possibilities of portrait painting and landscape. The show is comprised of 53 works in oil in large dimension.Museo dell'Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta (near Piazza del Popolo)Tuesday-Sunday, 9 am - 7 pm; through September 19Philip GustonAn icon among 20th century artists, painter and print-maker Philip Guston helped turn the art world's attention towards America. This exhibition presents a series of 43 paintings produced during his sojourn in Rome. Museo Carlo Bilotti - Arnaceria Di Villa Borghese Viale Fiorello La Guardia 4 (in the Borghese Gardens) Tuesday - Sunday 9 am - 7 pm; through September 5 Nedko Solakov - The Passage The fourth installation in the Villa Borghese exhibition cycle in which a contemporary artist is invited to present a project that reflects on an artist or artwork from the museum's permanent collection. Bulgarian artist Nedko Solakov's installation narrates the course taken from the moment an artist receives a commission to the time the piece is publicly shown. Galleria Borghese, Piazzale Scipione Borghese 5 (in the Borghese Gardens)Tuesday - Sunday 9 am -7 pm; through October 3 tel 06 841 3979MAXXI-Museo delle Arti del XXI Secolo
The opening exhibitions in this splendid new museum.
Geografie ItalianeA video installation chronicles Italian architectural history and design in the 20th century, with drawings, photographs, interviews, and cinematographic fragments.Luigi Moretti - Architetto. Dal Razionalismo all'InformaleAnalyzes the architectural projects, theoretic activities and writings of one of the major contributors to 20th century Italian architecture.Kutlug Ataman - Mesopotamian DramaturgiesEight videos underscoring the relationship between the East and West, between modernization and tradition, globalization and the persistence of local cultures. Gino De Dominicis - L'immortale De Domenicis has been a point of reference for a new generation of artists. A mega retrospective dedicated to the artist, features 100 works, including the well-known installation, "Calamita Cosmica". SpazioA selection of 80 works in painting, sculpture, drawing and site-specific installations by William Kentridge, Alighiero Boetti, Giuseppe Penone and Francesco Vezzoli.Via Guido Reni 6 (Flaminio)Tuesday - Sunday 11 am - 7 pm; Thursday, 11 am - 10 pm; tel 06 321 0181MACROLuca Trevisani: Lo spazio è un giardino da coltivareA site-specific installation transforms MACRO's entrance wall into an experience of choreographed elements configuring the cosmos, figures and industrial production.Jacob Hashimoto - Silence Still Governs our ConsciousnessIn a fantastical site-specific installation, American artist Jacob Hashimoto creates an environment as much meditative as sculptural, eliciting a synthesis between nature and technology. Gilberto Zorio - XY ZorioAn exponent of the Arte Povera movement and a masterful interpreter of conceptual art, Zorio transforms the exhibition room into a pulsating energetic environment that invites visitors to join in.MacroWall: Eighties are back #1 - Aflredo PirriAlfredo Pirri, joined by other artists, kicks off the project revisiting Italian art of the 1980s through a cycle of works ranging across diverse mediums. Joao Louro - My Dark PlacesThe Portuguese artist Joao Louro creates a universe in which vision and language converge through a series of panels depicting themes of fear and pleasure taken from literary works by James Ellroy and the Marquis de Sade.JorgePeris -Micro Aureo AdelaAn interactive space focused on ecosystems, confronting the relationship between water and salt.Aaron YoungSculpture, video and installation by the American artist explore expressions and language found in urban environments.Oscar Savio: Architettura in bianco e neroA selection of black-and.white photographs by the venerated photographer, captures the splendor and innovation of 20th century Italian architecture. MacroRadici del contemporaneo: a Roma la nostra era avanguardiaPays homage to the "vitalità del negativo nell'arte italiana 1960s e 1970s". The public is invited to review the city's art scene of that era. At Macro- Museo D'Arte Contemporanea Di Roma Via Reggio Emilia 54 ( near Piazza Fiume) Tuesday - Sunday, 9 am - 7 pm; through August 22 tel 06 671 070400La Natura secondo De Chirico A broad overview of works by Giorgio De Chirico, articulated in seven gallery spaces, the paintings presented offer an important analysis of the artist's principle formalistic and thematic thoughts. The exhibition intends to underscore the rapport among de Chirico's art, physics and natural philosophy.Mimmo Jodice During the 1960s, Mimmo Jodice was among the major interpreters of the avant-garde and took a prominent position at the forefront of the cultural debate that sanctioned the affirmation of photography in contemporary art. Through a selection of over 180 hand-printed black and white photographs dating from 1964 to 2009, Jodice reveals the affinities between his works and those of De Chirico.Giulio Paolini Paolini (Genova, 1940), an exponent of Arte Poverà, is considered one of the master interpreters of contemporary art. His work explores the idea that every art is derived from one enigmatic model. At the Palazzo Delle Esposizioni Via Nazionale 194 Sunday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, 10 am - 8 pm, Friday-Saturday 10 am - 12:30 pm; through July 11Giacomo Favretto Favretto (1849-1887) was one of the major interpreters of 19th-century Venetian painting and one of the most important painters of that era. The exhibition offers a chronological account of his artistic activity, highlighting key pivotal works that contributed to his development.Chiostro Bramante, Via della Pace (near Piazza Navona)Tuesday-Sunday, 10 am - 8 pm; through July 4 tel 06 688 09035
L'Età della Conquista (The Age of Conquest)
Highlighting the profound influence Greco-Roman culture had on all Western civilization, this is the first in a series of five exhbitions. Covering the period from the end of the third century BC to the middle of the first century BC, the exhibition focuses on the period when Roman conquests in Greece brought Greek culture to the upper classes in Rome, influencing home decor, dress, architecure and religion.
Musei Capitolini, Piazza del Camidoglio
Tuesday-Sunday, 9 am - 8 pm through September 5 tel 06 060
 | | Getaways: Rome's Beaches, Lakes and Pools
Fregene
Once a quiet fishing village, Fregene became the weekend escape of Rome's upper classes between the two World Wars. During the 1960s, Fregene's villas and beaches were a vacation haven for a coterie of luminaries, including Federico Fellini, Giulietta Massina, Marcello Mastroianni, Pier Paolo Pasolini, and novelist Alberto Moravia. Today, Fregene is going strong with a new, energetic group, seeking the same fun in the sun as the first enchanted arrivals. Soccer stars show off well-tanned biceps along with their cellulite free companions, making Fregene the place to be. A happening club scene has emerged, and the shores are lined with privately-operated beach clubs (stabilimenti balneari), offering restaurants and changing rooms with showers. Many have swimming pools, and other amenities - beach chairs, umbrellas, water toys. Entrance fees vary from club to club.
"Singita - Miracle Beach" A free beach club with an Arabic-themed bar. Every night, at the stroke of the gong, beach-goers flock to the club's sofas, tables, pillows and sheets spread on the sand to watch the sunset while indulging in exotic cocktails, often accompanied by dj sets playing lounge, Baleatic and Arabic melodies. On the beach at Villaggio dei Pescatori. www.singita.it
Capri Club Soccer stars and their gorgeous companions frequent this luxurious club at on the the southernmost beach road.
At Lungomare di Levante 288, along the southernmost beach road. tel 06 66560644
Sogno del Mare, offers old-fashioned beach fun, with volleyball and windsurfing. Lungomare di Ponente 25, on Fregene's northern beach road .
tel 06 665 62812 www.sognodelmare.it
Victoria Regeneration Spa, Ostia  |
Ostia
Built as a fortress during the Roman era to protect the city from invaders, Ostia later became an important port city. After the fall of the Roman Empire, it was heavily looted, and today, many of its great treasures can be found in museums and private collections. Besides the attraction of nearby beaches, the ancient city is an archeological excavation, a smaller version of Pompeii and nearly as fascinating. A visit to the archeological site at Ostia Antica can be combined with a day at the nearby Ostia Lido beach.
Along the Lungomare, Ostia's stretch of beach front, clubs line the sands. Until 1933, when the Fascist government linked the area to the city by rail services and the Cristoforo Colombo boulevard, it was just a fishing village. During the era of La Dolce Vita, Italian film stars and Rome's celebrated aristocracy filed into the exclusive Kursaal Beach Club, famous for its gigantic trampoline and Olympic-sized pool. These days, pollution sometimes makes the waters off-limits for swimming, and the beaches are monopolized by private beach clubs with restaurants, swimming pools and cabanas.
Kursaal Village, renovated several years ago, this was the beach club most frequented by the Roman nobility, show biz celebrities and the like. Kursaal has several restaurants, an Olympic-size pool known for its diving board, a baby pool, kite surfing, beach tennis and volleyball, discos, shopping, a gym and daily or seasonal cabana rentals.
Entrance fee €10 weekdays, €12 Saturday and Sunday. Lounge chairs (lettini) €7.
Lungomare Lutazio Catulo 37 tel 06 564 70871
www.kursaalvillage.com
Gambrinus Beach Club offers free entrance but charges a fee for use of private cabins or one large changing room where belongings can be left; lounge beach chairs, umbrellas and swimming pool. Restaurant, snack bar and quick shop on the premises.
Open daily 9 am-7 pm
Via Lungomare Amerigo Vespucci 12, tel 06 564 70200
Plinius Entrance fee €12 includes umbrella and beach chair; children pay €6 chair and umbrella not included. Via Lungomare Duillio, tel 06 563 0454
Stabilimento Venezia
Entrance fee €15 weekdays, €20 Saturday and Sunday. Children age 7+ €8.
Via Lungomare Vespucci 10 tel 06 564 70166
For a nice meal away from the beachfront:
Villaggio dei Pescatori, Via Silvi Marina 36
tel 06 665 60 005
Getting there
Ostia beaches:
The local train departs every fifteen minutes from Ostiense train station at the Piramide Metro stop, Line B. Exit Center Lido. Once off the train, a bus will take you from the Cristoforo Columbo station to a free beach, Castel Porziano, if you prefer no frills but mounds of sand dunes and limited crowds. If you prefer a less Spartan experience, exit the train at the last stop and begin walking along the Lungomare until you can decide which beach club you'd like to frequent along this Roman Riviera. Prepare for a colorful parade of characters set against a Fellinesque backdrop.
Ostia Antica:
Take the Metro, Line B from Stazione Termini to the Magliana Stop. From there, take the Lido train to Ostia Antica. Or take the Lido train directly from the Piramide station. It's a 20 minute trip with trains departing about every half-hour. Walk a short distance to the excavations (look for the signs pointing to "scavi", from the highway that connects Rome with the coast.
Rome's northern coastline
At the northern end of the Laziale Tyrrhenian coast, Santa Marinella and Santa Severa are favorites for families in search of sandy beaches and young surfers eager to catch their first waves.
Santa Marinella sits atop an ancient Roman bathing resort. Numerous ruins from ancient Roman bridges along the Via Aurelia with construction dating to the third century B.C. can be found in this zone.
The castle of Santa Severa is set on the site of the ancient harbor town of Pyrgi. Over the centuries, the site has been substantially rebuilt, most notably, during the period between the seventh and the ninth centuries, when it acquired the look of a Roman colonial village. Medieval documentation shows the Castellum Sanctae Saverae date back to the 11th Century. Its cylindric tower, enabling a 360° observation was known as the Saracen Tower, a strategic watch post. The site became the property of a the wealthy Venturini family in the 14th Century. During the renaissance, the site operated again under the aegis of the Roman Church, while in the 20th Century it was even used as a hospital. The area became a popular tourist spot after archaeological excavations in 1959 revealed many ancient settlement around the castle.
Getting there:
By train, from the Vatican, Stazione San Pietro take the FF.SS.on the Rome-Pisa line to local stations Santa Marinella - Piazzale Matteotti or Santa Severa - Via della Stazione di S. Severa.
By car, take Strada Statale n.1 (Aurelia) to Civitavecchia where you pick up the A12. Santa Severa is 51 km from Rome; Santa Marinella is 62 kilometers.
Cooling Off Poolside
During the Estate Romana summer festival two large public pools are available and a few hotels open their pool facilities to the public for a fee:
Rome Cavalieri Hilton
Via Cadlolo, 101 (Monte Mario) tel 06 35091
One of Rome's more posh hotels, just out of town on a hill overlooking the city. Full poolside service, bar and light dining. The tariff for non-hotel guests includes pool bed, umbrella, towels and shower/locker facilities.
Open 9 am-7 pm, €45 weekdays, €75 Saturday-Sunday. Children €25 weekdays, €50 Saturday-Sunday.
tel 06 350 91
Crowne Plaza Rome St Peter's
Via Aurelia Antica, 415 (beyond the Vatican) tel 06 66420
Enclosed in a tiny patch of woods, the hotel's poolside area offers an escape from the city with a countryside stillness.
Via Aurelia Antica, 415 (beyond the Vatican)
Open Monday-Friday, 8 am - 8 pm; closed to public weekends and holidays. €50 per person tel 06 66420
Piscina delle Rose
Viale America, 20 (Eur) tel 06 592 6717
Opened in 1960 for that year's Olympic competitions, the pool offers a series of fitness classes.
Open Monday through Friday 10 am - 10 pm; Saturday - Sunday, 9 am - 5 pm
€16 full day; after 1 pm, €14; for three hours, €10 for an hour and a half €7,50; reduced rate for children under 8. Families of FAO and bank employees are given discounted prices.
Seven Hills Village
Via Cassia 1216, tel 06 303 108 26
This camping and hostel facility on Rome's northside is a thirty-minute trip from St. Peter's. The complex and pool are set in a country atmosphere, surrounded by palms and exotic trees. Open noon - 7 pm, €12
Metro line A to Valle Aurelia connects to FM 3 commuter train to Via Giustiniana stop. Or take the bus line 907 from the Vatican Museums to Via Giustiniana.
www.sevenhills.it
Parco dei Principe Grand Hotel & Spa
Overlooking the Villa Borghese park in the upscale Parioli district, Parco dei Principe has enjoyed popularity among celebrities, politicians and foreign business travelers for decades.
Pool open to public: Monday - Friday , 10 am - 6 pm adults €35 full day; €25 half-day, from 3-6 pm; Saturday-Sunday, adults 10 am - 6 pm €50. Children €30.
Roma Sport Center
Within the Villa Borghese parking structure. Entrance sottopassaggio (underground metro entrance) from Via Veneto or Piazza di Spagna
One of the first fully equipped sports centers in Rome with fully-trained personnel. For a small fee, visitors are allowed use of the center's large indoor pool, which is 1.50 meters deep and 25 meters long. Lounge chairs, fitness equipment, sauna and hydro-massage are included in the entrance fee.
Open Monday-Friday, 7 am - 10:30 pm; Saturday 7 am- 8:30 pm € 30
Over 15 years old only.
tel 06 320 1667 or 320 8096
Seven Hills Village
Via Cassia, 1216
A camping and hostel facility on Rome's north side, 30 minutes from St. Peter's Basilica. The complex and pool are set in a tropical atmosphere surrounded by palms and exotic trees. Open from May through September,
11 - 8 pm, €10, lounge chair €2
tel 06 303 108 26
Metro line A to Valle Aurelia connects to FM 3 commuter train to Via Giustiniana stop. Or take bus #907 from the Vatican Museums to Via Giustiniana.
www.sevenhills.it
Grand Hotel Del Gianicolo
Viale delle Mura Gianicolensi, 107
Atop the Janiculum hill, just a short distance from the Vatican, Trastevere and the historic center, with a panoramic view across Rome's skyline from its rooftop terrace, gardens and swimming pool.
Open to the public Monday - Friday, 9 am - 7 pm; Adults €20 children €10
tel 06 5833 3405
www.grandhotelgianicolo.it
All'ombra del colosseo
At the Parco del Celio, just next to the Colosseum, a swimming pool, with acquagym, hydrobike and swimming lessons is open from nine in the morning. At seven in the evening, the mood changes with cocktail hour, pizzaria and restaurants at poolside. Then comes the cabaret, pop concerts, Italian comics.... and an area for those who like to play, of all things, "Texas Hold'Em," a form of poker. Finally, as the night lingers on, the action gets going at l'Avenue, a dance floor with djs.
Enter from the Salita di San Gregorio.
www.allombradelcolosseo.it
Hotel Relais Casale Della Certosa
Via Pierrelcina 6/8
Out of town but worth the drive, this newly refurbished hotel, the former home of the Certosini Monks, is immersed in the verdant countryside of the Castelli Romani, surrounded by vineyards and olive groves. The Olympic-size pool is open to the public with poolside service from the hotel restaurant.
€13 per day, including lounge chair, children €11
http://www.casalecertosa.it
Getting there:
By car, take the GRA exit 24 Ardeatina - direction Divino Amore (Ardea). Continue along SP3 (via Ardeatina) for 20 Km to intersection with Pavona Station Way, turn left on Via Pietrelcina, go ahead for 300 meters to the entrance, then take the first left onto Pietrelcina's way
The Lakes of Lazio
Lago Albano - Castel Gondolfo: Stabilimento Balneare
Via dei Pescatori, 14
This picturesque hideaway tucked in the Alban Hills, looking out onto the sweeping Alban landscape, is known in contemporary times as the summer residence of the Popes. During the middle ages, the territory was in the hands of feudal lords. Archeological excavation of tools, stone artifacts, and the remains of prehistoric pachyderms date activity in the area to the Paleolithic Age. The beaches are free but there are a few beach clubs offering lounge chair and umbrella rentals. The Stabilmento Balneare offers sun-bathing, dipping and lounging in a well-manicured garden amidst an explosion of flowers and greenery.
tel 06 9300 426
Other activities:
Castel Gandolfo Country Club has an 18-hole golf course equipped with restaurant, bar, swimming, tennis court, cinema and conference room. Via S. Spirito, 14
Around the lake: Pedal boat rental, windsurf, swimming, canoeing, bicycling, trekking, horse-back riding and archeological walk
Getting there:
By car take S.S. 7 "Appia Nuova" (exit 23 on the G.R.A.) and follow indications for Castel Gandolfo-Lago.
By train: From Stazione Termini, take the Roma-Albano line (hourly departures- travelng time about 45 minutes) to Stazione di Castel Gandolfo The beach front is no more than 500 meters from the train station.
Where to Eat:
Antico Ristorante Pagnanelli
Four generations of the Pagnanelli family have owned and operated this elegant country restaurant since 1882. Located next door to the Papal Summer Residence, Pagnanelli offers interior dining on three levels. Outdoor dining from their beautiful flowered terrace with a spectacular view of the lake, is nothing less than memorable. Much care goes into the preparation of foods. Fresh vegetables are brought in daily from the family's garden. The menu offering local and regional cuisine, includes a variety of meats and fish. The restaurant has an extensive wine list that includes many of Frascati's superior labels.
Via Gramsci 4 tel 06 936 00004 www.pagnanelli.it
Lago di Martignano
Tucked away in the rural countryside surrounded by the hills of Rome , Lago Martignano formed from volcanic eruption, covers an area of 2,440 kilometres square, has a depth of 60 meters and rises 300 meters above sea level.
A phantom canal of waterworks connects Lago di Martigliano to the larger Lago di Bracciano though the lake's change of water is supplied from seasonal rain.
There are no coastal or asphalt paved roads and no motor vehicle access onto the lake area. Once you've parked, a 400-meter walk (from the car park) along an unpaved path lined with elm and live oak trees brings you to the lake's shores.
A few farm houses and one agriturismo dot the lake's shores. Silence, nature, uncontaminated fauna and flora, clean water, and zero traffic characterize this hidden spot. Services: chair and umbrella rental, bar and restaurant, public baths.
Additional activities: bicycle trekking, jogging, horseback riding, canoeing. If you hold a license you can fish for black bass, pike, perch, carpe and tinche.
Parking: €4 a day; €2 after 2:30 pm. Half price for motor bikes.
Lago di Bracciano
Just 36 kilometers northwest of the city in the back hills of a bucolic Roman countryside, Lago di Bracciano has been a favorite weekend retreat since the time of the Romans. Ruins discovered in the lake basin suggest an earlier history dating back to the Etruscans and further to the first neolithic villages built 5,500 years ago. In recent years, the magnificent castle on it's shores, Castello Orsini, has housed dignitaries from John F. Kennedy to the Pope, and was the site of the famous Tom-Katie wedding.
The beauty of the lake and the surrounding countryside is breathtaking, and still amazingly wild. The water is populated with swans, ducks, wild geese, cormorans and coot and the woods are home to porcupines, boar, foxes and hedgehogs who venture out after sundown.
During the summer months, the lake towns offer a wide variety of recreational activities: sun-bathing, swimming, bicycling, hiking in the surrounding hills, peddle-boat rentals, wind surfing, sailing and rowing, horseback riding. It's a great lake for fishing, full of carp, pike, perch and coregone (a lake whitefish), which is similar to mullet. The lake's beaches, dark and pebbly, are freely accessible to the public, with beach chairs and umbrellas available for rental along the Trevignano strip.
Learn more about Lake Bracciano
Where to Stay:
La Tenuta I Due Laghi
About 39 kilometers northwest of Rome, a country relais spread over 150 hectares between two lakes (Bracciano and Martigliano) and within the borders of the Parco Naturale Regionale. The estate has 24 rooms and offers organized equestrian activities. Il Ristorante La Posta de' Cavalieri, which is part of the estate, uses the organic foods produced on the property to create the traditional Tuscia cuisine that dominates the menu: lake fish, homemade pasta, meat, cheese and salami.
www.iduelaghi.it
By car, take the Cassia Bis in the direction of Veientana - Viterbo (exit 5 from the G.R.A.) for about 35 kilometers, exit at Settevene direction Bracciano/Anguillara. Continue for 6 kilometres and turn left for Anguillara at the fork. Follow the lake road in the direction Anguillara for another 5 km, to Via della Marmotta, after 800 meters, you'll see the entrance for Tenuta I Due Laghi.
Getting there:
By car: Take the SS 1 Aurelia to Cerveteri. Follow signs for Bracciano/Anguillara.
For Lake Martignano, pass through the town of Anguillara and look out for a sign indicating Martignano placed after the last signal light leaving the town. Turn onto the country road and follow it uphill to the car park at the top.
From the north side of Rome
Take the Cassia Nuova to the Cassia Vecchia. Look for the Bracciano/Anguillara exit and continue along the tree-lined country road until you arrive at the Anguillara turn off.
For lake Martignano, pass through the town of Anguillara and watch closely for the sign indicating the Lago di Martigliano turnoff. Continue along the country road until you can go no further. Park at the top of the hill.
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